Trapper’s Tree Service (Columbus, Ohio), USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

Company Description:
Our certified team members have decades of experience. We are committed to making our land beautiful, as well as leaving our customers satisfied with the job they’ve received. We utilize state-of-the-art equipment, which provides us the ability to safely and proficiently prune or remove any tree, regardless of size, location, or condition.

When you meet with a Trapper’s Tree Service representative, you will receive a complete property evaluation and expert advice in all areas of tree and shrub care. While most companies take days to provide an estimate, Trapper’s Tree Service prides itself in providing estimates in hours, not days. Once hired, we provide you a Certificate of Insurance, taking all responsibility for our employees on your property. Unlike other tree care companies that take weeks to finish a job, our team will have it done in days.

General Information
Verification of Tom Taber’s credential as a Certified Arborist can be found at (http://www.isa-arbor.com/faca/arboristdetail.aspx?ID=171175)

Thanks for reading and have a great weekend everybody!
~ Trapper

Lead Editor: Curtis Young; Contributing Authors: Pam Bennett, Joe Boggs, Julie Crook, Jim Chatfield, Erik Draper Dave Dyke, Gary Gao, Tim Malinich, Cindy Meyer, Amy Stone, Marne Titchnell and Curtis Young.

Plants of The Week
* Weed – Jimsonweed (Datura stramonium)

Jimsonweed, also referred to as green dragon, loco weed, thorn apple, devil’s apple, stinkwort, devil’s-trumpet, angel’s trumpet, or fireweed, is an erect summer annual with large that has a foul odor. Primarily a weed of agronomic crops, Jimsonweed is found throughout most of the United States except for the Northwest. Jimsonweed, belonging to the nightshade-family, grows several feet tall and is characterized by irregularly toothed leaves and funnel-shaped and purplish or white flowers. The plant produces prickly fruits about 2″ long with small kidney-shaped seeds, black in color. This weed thrives in cultivated fields, overgrazed pastures, and disturbed areas. The entire plant is poisonous especially the leaves and seeds. This plant contains a narcotic poison, called stramonium, which is a toxic poisonous hallucinogen. Jimsonweed is poisonous to animals but is rarely ingested because it is unpalatable.

For More Information:
West Virginia University

http://www.caf.wvu.edu/~forage/weedsolu/jimsonwd.htm

Virginia Tech Weed Guide

http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/datst.htm

* Vegetable – Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas)

This herbaceous vine, related to the flowering morning glory that graces many gardens, produces large starchy and sweet edible roots. Native to Central and South America, the sweet potato will succeed in areas that can provide a long warm growing season. In Ohio, sweet potatoes are started from “slips”, rooted cuttings or sprouts from a growing vine. The slips are grown in southern states or greenhouse grown and shipped north during the proper planting season (late spring). Slips are planted 18″ apart in rows 3′ apart. The vines quickly develop to cover the entire area crowding out most weeds.

Sweet potatoes can be harvested beginning in late summer and harvest should be completed shortly after frost. Cold soil temperatures reduce the storage life of the sweet potato and rot organisms can quickly move from frosted vines to the roots. Dig carefully to avoid damaging the tuberous roots.

After harvest, the roots must be cured to develop their sweet flavor. After they are dried for a few hours, they are moved into a warm (85F) area with high humidity for two weeks. After this initial curing they can be stored long term in a cool area (55F).

Most varieties available are orange-fleshed (‘Centennial’, ‘Georgia Jet’, and the non-trailing ‘Vardaman’) but white-fleshed varieties might still be found. As a houseplant or school project, a sweet potato will grow an abundance of fine roots, leaves and vines from a tuberous root suspended in water. They can also be stored through spring to grow a crop of slips for next year’s garden.

The term yam is often used interchangeably with sweet potato. Yams (Dioscorea spp.) are native to Africa and Asia and produce very large starchy tubers. They grow only in the tropics. However, because the two names are often thought to indicate the same vegetable, USDA labeling rules require “sweet potato” to be included anytime the word “yam” is used.

Ornamental sweet potatoes (also Ipomoea batatas) are selected for their foliage and growth habit and not for the eating or keeping quality of the roots. Additionally, pesticides used to grow ornamental sweet potatoes may not have been labeled for use on vegetables – use caution if gleaning ornamental sweet potato tubers.

For More Information:
University of Illinois Extension fact sheet

http://urbanext.illinois.edu/veggies/sweetpotato.cfm

* Woody – Fall Foliage in Ohio
From the luminous yellow-oranges of sugar maples to the straw-yellow inner needles of white pines, from the red-orange of ‘Autumn Blaze’ Freeman maple to the lemon yellow sweet birch, enjoy these last few days of world-class fall color in Ohio’s landscapes and woodlands. Our fall foliage deciduous tree spectacular in the Eastern U.S. is rivaled in the world only in some areas of China. As shortening day length results in the development of abscission layers in leaves, leaf-produced carbohydrates are blocked from transport, chlorophyll production lessens and chlorophyll breaks down, and other pigments are unmasked, including the yellow xanthophylls and orange carotenoids, and new pigments are produced, such as the purples and reds of anthocyanins. The result: “Autumn, the year’s last, loveliest smile.” (William Cullen Bryant).

* Perennial – Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)

This ornamental grass was once a dominant grass found in the rich and fertile soils of Ohio’s tallgrass prairies. Native to Ohio, little bluestem forms upright clumps of green foliage that has a tint of blue at the base. It is a clump-growing grass that can get to around 2 – 5′ tall and about 3′ wide. The flower spikes emerge in July and last through September. The fluffy plumes caused by the ripening seed heads catch the fall sunlight, and along with the bronze to flaming orange fall color, give this plant added character this time of the year. It grows best in full sun and tolerates just about any soil except for wet areas; plant little bluestem in masses for best effect. Some of the cultivars have exceptional blue foliage color while others have outstanding fall colors.

One can find all of the little bluestem cultivars from around the country growing in one of the 11 National Grass Trial sites around the country. Pam Bennett, along with her Master Gardener Volunteers of Clark County is hosting one of these sites at the OSU Extension office in Clark County, in the Gateway Learning Gardens. Planted this past spring, this 4 year trial is looking at the cultivars of S. scoparium as well as all of the cultivars of Panicum virgatum (switch grass) and one cultivar of P. amarum. Participants in the trial will be evaluating the plants and recording their obserations/ratings on a website in 2013 – 2015. Watch for more details of the trials in BYGL next season. One of the best performers in the Ohio site this year, which was also the planting establishment year, was S. scoparium ‘Blue Heaven’.

For More Information:
Missouri Botanical Garden Kemper Center for Home Gardening PlantFinder information on Schizachyrium scoparium

http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/plant-finder/plant-details/kc/f510/schizachyrium-scoparium.aspx

Hort Shorts
White-Nose Syndrome in Bats: Report Signs of Infected Bats

White-nose syndrome (WNS) is a deadly disease of cave-hibernating bats. The disease is caused by an invasive fungus that infects bats while they are hibernating in caves and abandoned mines over the winter. Infected bats wake from hibernation, often leave caves to search of food or water, which is not readily available during the cold, freezing months of winter, and do not survive. WNS was first discovered in New York during the winter of 2006 – 2007 and has since spread to 21 states and into 4 Canadian provinces. Bat mortality rates in infected caves commonly reach 90%. WNS made its way to Ohio in March of 2011 and has now been found in 6 counties. The Ohio Division of Wildlife and US Fish and Wildlife Service are on the lookout for additional WNS infected sites, as it is expected to spread further through Ohio this winter. The disease is spread from bat to bat, but humans can also transport the spores of the fungus on shoes and clothing. Because of this, many caves and mines on public lands that are home to bats have been closed to public access. Biologists are asking the public to please not enter a cave or mine where bats may be hibernating to prevent further spread of WNS. The best way to help track the spread of WNS is to look for and report any of the following signs: 1) bats seen flying during the day in cold, winter temperatures; 2) dead bats found during winter; and 3) bats found with white, powdery fungus on nose, ears, wings, or feet. Please report signs to 1-800-WILDLIFE. Smartphone users can report signs by taking a picture using a new app developed for tracking invasive species. Called the Great Lakes Early Detection Network app, this free app can be downloaded by visiting http://apps.bugwood.org/mobile/gledn.html , or typing GLEDN into Google Play. There is no evidence that WNS is harmful to humans, however like any wild animal, avoid touching or picking up sick or dead bats. For more information on WNS, refer to OSU Extension FactSheet W-22-12, “White-Nose Syndrome: A Deadly Disease of Bats.”

For More Information:
OSU Extension FactSheet W-22-12, “White-Nose Syndrome: A Deadly Disease of Bats”

http://ohioline.osu.edu/w-fact/pdf/W_22_12.pdf

The Wascally Wabbit: Prep Against Winter Rabbit Damage to Plants

The eastern cottontail rabbit can be responsible for a considerable amount of damage no matter the season. In the spring they are feasting on greening vegetation such as clover, herbs, and flowering plants, leaving plenty of time for crops to ripen (fruits, vegetables, legumes), which are preferred summer foods. Once fall and winter roll around, rabbits will turn their attention to woody plants for sustenance. They will eat the bark, buds, stems, and tender twigs of a variety of shrubs, vines, and young trees.

Winter damage by rabbits is fairly easy to identify. Older woody growth will have evidence of gnawing, with marks from the rabbit’s two front incisors usually evident. Twigs, vines, and stems will be neatly clipped off at a characteristic 45 degree angle. Round droppings in the area can also be used to identify rabbit damage. Keep in mind that rabbits are light enough to traverse on top of snow cover. Once the snow melts, the damage can be deceiving as it will appear to be much higher than a rabbit can reach. In places where snow drifts can reach 4 – 5′ high, it’s not uncommon to see rabbit damage to woody stems reaching that height.

Protect your woody plants this winter by surrounding them with a protective cylinder of hardware cloth or chicken wire. This barrier between your plant and hungry rabbits should be as tall as a rabbit’s reach (about 2′) while standing on the expected snow depth (perhaps another foot depending on where you live in Ohio). A mesh size of 1/4″ is ideal but can be more expensive than large mesh sizes. Leave enough space between the plant and cylinder to prevent a rabbit from reaching tasty twigs through the wire if you use mesh larger than 1/4″. Commercial tree guards are also an option, and serve the same purpose, if you do not want to make your own.

A dome or cage of chicken wire or hardware cloth can also be used to protect your early blooming flowers in the spring. Creating a barrier between the plants and rabbits is often a successful tool against rabbit damage throughout the year if other attempts, such as repellents, have failed. For more information on managing rabbit damage visit the Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management at: http://www.icwdm.org .

Outdoor Houseplants Become Indoor Houseplants Once More!
As temperatures are cooling all around the state and folks are putting their gardens to bed many of us are bringing our tender plants in doors to overwinter. Tender plants need to be brought in once temperatures drop to 55F. If you are seeing a drastic fluctuation in temperatures from day to night you might want to consider bringing plants in for the night and taking them back out during the day. By moving them back and forth this will also help to expose plants to the lower light levels in the home thus, helping to lessen the shock and unavoidable leaf loss. Plants also need to be inspected for any pests. Insects such as spider mites, white fly, scale, black vine weevil, and aphids are very prolific outdoors and may increase populations rapidly once they are indoors. These pests may spread to other plants very quickly if not controlled before bringing them inside. When inspecting be sure to look at leaves and stems thoroughly. For minor infestations, try washing plants carefully with water or an insecticidal soap. If plants are severely infested or diseased, simply discarding the plant may be your best plan of action.

For More Information:
Clemson University Extension

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/plant_pests/indoor/hgic2252.html

Bug Bytes
Home Space Invaders

Several BYGLers reported that with “fall in air,” a number of insects that behave as fall home invaders are poised to make their way into Ohio homes. Indeed, some are already knocking at the door! Common home-crashers that are found in the state include: HACKBERRY PSYLLIDS (Pachypsylla spp.); the BOXELDER BUG (Boisea trivittatus); the WESTERN CONIFER SEED LEAFFOOTED BUG (Leptoglassus occidentalis); the ATTIC FLY (a.k.a. CLUSTER FLY) (Pollenia rudis); the notorious MULTICOLORED ASIAN LADY BEETLE(Harmonia axyridis); and the becoming-more-notorious BROWN MARMORATED STINK BUG (Halyomorpha halys).

The non-native brown marmorated stink bug was first detected in North America in eastern Pennsylvania in 1998. Since that time, this Asian import has been slowly marching westward and southward and populations have gradually escalated in the Atlantic states with each successive season. The bug has one generation per season and develops through five nymphal stages. As with all stink bugs, brown marmorateds have piercing-sucking mouthparts and both the adults and nymphs feed on a wide variety of plants including fruits and vegetables as well as some ornamental plants. The bugs also have a nasty habit of entering homes and other heated structures in large numbers in the fall to overwinter which makes them a serious nuisance pest. Aside from wandering around in homes, if these stink bugs feel threatened they … stink.

The bug was first detected in Ohio in Franklin County in 2007. Curtis Young and Joe Boggs reported noticeable numbers this fall in the northwest and southwest parts of the state, respectively. The shield-shaped adults are around 1/2″ in length and mottled brown to gray. The exposed edges of their abdomen have dark and light banding and the last two antennal segments have alternating broad light and dark colored bands. The antennal and abdominal banding patterns help to separate these bugs from other stink bugs.

Curtis also noted that he has had reports of western conifer seed leaffooted bugs loitering around window screens in northwest Ohio; no doubt planning a little breaking and entering! Curtis reported that in some cases, the bugs have been mistaken for the brown marmorated stink bug. The 1/ 2″ – 3/4″ long brown colored bugs spend evening hours buzzing around porch lights and occasionally they find their way into homes. Although adults have unusually long sucking mouthparts, they are not a threat to homeowners. The bugs are named for the flat, leaf or web‑like structures found near the end of the hind legs. In Ohio, these insects prefer to feed on the cones of Scotch, pitch, and red pines, as well as Colorado and blue spruce. Homes near high concentrations of conifers trees may be more likely to experience a visit from these footloose nomads.

The best way to deal with these fall home invaders is to prevent them from gaining entry in the first place. With the exception of the psyllids, Asian lady beetles, and occasionally boxelder bugs, most of these insects are too large to squeeze through all but the largest of the openings into our homes. Although they may loiter on window screens, they’re too large to fit through the screens. However, the large opening created by a worn-out exterior door sweep may as well have a flashing neon “Enter Here” sign hanging above it. Leave the garage door up? Say hello to our little friends! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of bugs.

Other insect exclusion efforts include finding and sealing-off entry points such as cracks around windows, doors, or utility pipes. Poorly attached home siding and rips in window screens provide an open invitation. Check homes for unprotected vents, such as bathroom and kitchen vents, or unscreened attic vents. Also, while in the attic, look for openings around soffits. Hackberry psyllids may require more drastic (and expensive) measures since the tiny insects can pass through “standard-size” mesh screens. Homes located near large numbers of hackberry trees may need to have standard screens replaced with smaller mesh screens.

Once inside the home, the best method to manage the offending invader is to “Hooverize’em.” Swatting or otherwise smashing the invader could cause more damage than leaving them alone since fluids inside their bodies can leave permanent stains on furniture, carpets, and walls. Thus, the vacuum cleaner is the preferred method for giving the invader the bums rush. However, make certain the vacuum cleaner is a “by-pass” type, meaning refuse is not passed through an impeller. Otherwise, you will create a horrifying bug-blender.

For More Information:
Penn State Entomology Fact Sheet

http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/brown-marmorated-stink-bug

Dancing White Puffballs on Alder

Joe Boggs reported that WOOLLY ALDER APHIDS (Paraprociphilus tessellates) remain evident in southwest Ohio. The woolly aphids gather together in prominent colonies on twigs and branches and enshroud themselves in a profuse mass of white, wool-like filaments. When a colony is disturbed, they pulse their posterior ends in unison. Readers may recognize that this aphid’s woolly appearance and peculiar defense behavior is almost identical to BEECH BLIGHT APHID (Grylloprociphilus imbricator), the so-called “boogie-woogie aphid” that has danced its way through the BYGL on numerous occasions.

However, similarities between the two aphids end with the woolly two-step. Beech blight aphids are only found on beech. The woolly alder aphid also infests silver maple. Indeed, the alternate common name for this aphid is MAPLE BLIGHT APHID. On maple, the aphid spends the winter as eggs in bark cracks and crevices. The nymphs hatch in the spring and migrate to the midveins on the underside of maple leaves where they cover themselves in a mass of white, woolly filaments. Their plant sucking damage may cause leaves to become curled and puckered. In mid-summer, white fluff-covered adults fly to alders where they establish colonies described above. Flights of these “flying puff-balls” can be dramatic.

On alder, two types of aphids arise from the colonies at the end of the season. One type will fly to maple and lay overwintering eggs. The other type will remain on alder spending the winter in hibernation under leaf litter beneath the tree. In the spring, these adults move back to the branches and establish colonies.

The aphids are prolific producers of honeydew, both on maple and alder. Branches and leaves beneath the colonies may become glazed in sticky goo. The honeydew is often heavily colonized by black sooty molds. However, the aphids appear to cause no approachable harm to the overall health of infested alder or silver maple trees. Heavy populations usually collapse from predation and parasitism after a few seasons. So, no controls are recommended.

For More Information:
N.C. State Turf and Ornamental Entomology Notes

http://go.osu.edu/PwX

Iowa State University Extension Horticulture Home Pest News

http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/node/1418

Disease Digest
Invasion of the Dome-Headed Gnomes?

Curtis Young reported visiting a yard that appeared to have an army of dome-headed gnomes marching through the grass blades. What he observed was a massive flush of SHAGGY MANE MUSHROOMS (Coprinus comatus). The shaggy mane is also called the Shaggy Inkcap and Lawyer’s Wig. Shaggy manes typically and suddenly appear in lawns in troops, lines or rings and this year is no exception. The mushroom is well known by mushroom hunters and is also relatively easily identified based on its shape and its disappearing act that it displays as it matures. As with other “inky” mushrooms, the shaggy mane’s cap and gills “deliquesce” – melt away producing a black spore-filled, gelatinous liquid (ink) as the mushroom ages.

The shaggy mane mushroom is a saprobe, meaning it is a decomposer of organic materials that have accumulated in the soils. They are not associated with any diseases of plants, thus the mushrooms are not a sign of troubles in the landscape.

For More Information:
Mushroom Expert Web Page

http://www.mushroomexpert.com/coprinus_comatus.html

American Mushrooms Web Page

http://americanmushrooms.com/edibles5.htm

Turf Tips
Time to Finish Up Lawn Care Chores for the Season

Wait – before the tools are put away and the mower blades are sharpened and mowers put away, there are a few things left to do for the lawn. Between now and the end of November is the time to apply the last fertilization of the season. Research has shown that this application, coupled with the early fall (mid-September in central Ohio) application is very beneficial. Fall is the time of year that turf grass experiences great growing conditions, allowing the turf plant to improve density through the development of new shoots and roots as well as store carbohydrates to be used next season. In addition, this application helps to increase heat and drought tolerance.

The window is pretty much closed for a fall seeding of lawns in Ohio so it’s best to wait and winter seed in January or February. If seed is planted now and the grass germinates this time of the year, the risk from cold damage increases. The best time to seed grass is late summer and early fall with the second best time of the year being winter; the freezing and thawing of the soil helps to work the seed into the soil.

The final mowing should be at the same height as the lawn is mowed all summer – the PROPER height! Don’t lower the mower at the end of the season and give it one final scalp. Refer to the OSU Extension FactSheet HYG 1190-93, “Mowers and Mowing” http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1190.html for specific details on mowing heights. Sharpen the lawn mower blade before putting the mower away so that it’s ready for next spring. A damaged or worn blade tears the grass plant as opposed to giving it a sharp, clean cut. The result is a brown ragged overall appearance to the turf. In addition, a little maintenance to the mower goes a long way to keep it in good shape.

For More Information:
Ohio State University Extension Factsheet 1191-93, “Lawn Care Plans”

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1191.html

Ohio State University Extension Factsheet 1190-93, “Mowers and Mowing”

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1190.html

Industry Insight
Sorting Through Quarantines
When you hear the word quarantine, what do you think of? Many may think – EMERALD ASH BORER (EAB), but don’t forgot there are other quarantines in place including the GYPSY MOTH quarantine and the ASIAN LONGHORNED BEETLE (ALB) quarantine here in Ohio. While one of the quarantines may allow for certain regulated items to move, another may still restrict that materials movement. And although it may be legal to move firewood for example in certain situations, the “buy it where you burn it” is a simple slogan that everyone should follow. Moving firewood has the potential of moving both native and non-native pests.

This summer brought a major change to the EMERALD ASH BORER (EAB) quarantine. Historically, EAB quarantine areas in different states were treated as separate regulated areas. Under this new policy unveiled this summer, a federal EAB quarantine area in one state that shares a border with a federal EAB quarantine area in another state is considered “contiguous.” There are two federal EAB contiguous quarantine areas: the smaller one includes EAB quarantine counties in Iowa, Minnesota, and Wisconsin that share borders; the larger contiguous EAB quarantine includes counties where borders are shared among eight states, and includes Ohio. These two contiguous areas are not subject to regulatory restrictions. However, the conditions for movement of regulated articles with destinations in the protected areas in Illinois and Indiana are unchanged and require a limited permit or federal certificate. A limited permit or federal certificate is also required for movement of regulated articles out of EAB quarantine areas.

So after reading about the EAB quarantine change, you may think movement of regulated items including firewood in Ohio is ok. NOT! One cannot forget about the two other quarantines in place that could restrict movement. The oldest quarantine is one established to slow-the-spread of the gypsy moth and currently includes 51 counties in Ohio. The counties include: Ashland, Ashtabula, Athens, Belmont, Carroll, Columbiana, Coshocton, Crawford, Cuyahoga, Defiance, Delaware, Erie, Fairfield, Franklin, Fulton, Geauga, Guernsey, Harrison, Henry, Hocking, Holmes, Huron, Jefferson, Knox, Lake, Licking, Lorain, Lucas, Mahoning, Marion, Medina, Monroe, Morgan, Morrow, Muskingum, Noble, Ottawa, Perry, Portage, Richland, Sandusky, Seneca, Stark, Summit, Trumbull, Tuscarawas, Vinton, Washington, Wayne, Williams, and Wood. Gypsy moth regulated articles include, but are not limited to: trees and woody shrubs, including cut Xmas trees; logs, pulpwood, slab-wood, firewood, and wood-bark chips; outdoor household articles, including: tables, benches, chairs, doghouses, birdhouses, and feeders, planters, utility sheds, grills, garden equipment, children’s playthings, such as playhouses and sandboxes: recreational vehicles, boats, trailers, tents, associated equipment, etc. Any other product or article, or means of conveyance that may carry a life stage of the gypsy moth.

The other quarantine is the ALB quarantine, and includes three identified areas in Clermont County in SW Ohio. Regulated articles described in this quarantine include: firewood, stumps, roots, branches, debris, and other material – living, dead, cut, or fallen – from all hardwood species; and nursery stock and logs of ALB host trees.

Questions about any of these three quarantines can be answered by the Ohio Department of Agriculture (ODA). ODA can be reached by calling 614-728-6400, emailing plantpest@agri.ohio.gov , or on the web at http://www.agri.ohio.gov/divs/plant/plant.aspx?div=plantpest.htm .

For More Information:
Q and A: Changes to EAB Quarantine

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/publications/plant_health/2012/faq_eab_quarantine_changes.pdf

Cooperative EAB Project Quarantine Map

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/plant_pest_info/emerald_ash_b/downloads/eab_quarantine_map.pdf

Ohio Gypsy Moth Quarantine Map

http://www.agri.ohio.gov/divs/plant/gypsy/maps/GypsyMothQuarantineCounties.pdf

Federal Gypsy Moth Quarantine Map

http://www.agri.ohio.gov/divs/plant/gypsy/maps/GypsyMothQuarantineAreas.pdf

Ohio Asian Longhorned Beetle Quarantine Map

http://www.agri.ohio.gov/TopNews/asianbeetle/docs/ALB_ohio_quarantine_082112.pdf

WeatherWatch
Current Conditions
The following weather information summarizes data collected at various Ohio Agricultural Research Development Center (OARDC) Weather Stations spanning the dates from January 1 – October 16, 2012, with the exception of the soil temperatures which are readings from Tuesday, October 16, 2012 at 6:05 p.m.

Since our last BYGL, most of the buckeye state has experienced freezing temperatures overnight. Joe Boggs reported that although the Cincinnati has had some frosts, it managed to dodge the freeze-bullet despite a freeze warning last week. Precipitation totals have varied even within a county, but recent rains are a welcomed site. All five of the weather stations listed below are experiencing less than normal precipitation amounts since the first of the year.

Weather Station
Region of Ohio
Ave. High
Temp. F
Ave. Low
Temp. F
Total
Precip.”
Normal
Precip.”
Soil Temp. F 2″/3″

Ashtabula

NE

64.8

46.6

26.64

31.2

54.22/58.26

Wooster

NE

67.6

45.4

22.16

32.2

58.10/57.56

Hoytville

N

68.3

46.0
23.52

27.0

57.59/55.06

Columbus

Central

71.0

48.9

23.09

34.9

57.35/57.35

Piketon

South

71.4

47.1

26.06

31.0

60.82/60.80

For More Information:
OARDC Weather Stations

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/centernet/weather.htm

Coming Attractions
Ohio ISA Winter Meeting
The 2013 Ohio Tree Care Conference will be held on February 10 – 12, 2013 at the Dayton Convention Center. Information about the conference, exhibitor registration, and hotel information is available on the Ohio Chapter of the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) at http://www.ohiochapterisa.org .

Save the Date – 2013 Tri-State Green Industry Conference
2013 Tri-State Green Industry Conference is on February 7, 2013 at the Sharonville Convention Center, 11355 Chester Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45246. The Tri-State Green Industry Conference is a collaborative effort between the Extension Services of Ohio State and Purdue, and the Cincinnati Flower Growers Association (CFGA). It features a variety of high quality education and training for professionals in the areas of Annuals & Perennials, Greenhouse Management, Tree & Shrub Care, Turfgrass Management, Green Infrastructure and General Pest & Disease Management and also features a vendor trade show. Pesticide recertification credits for Ohio, Indiana and Kentucky will be given, OCNT training credit is available, ASLA CEUs are available and CEUs will be available for ISA Certified Arborists.

For More Information:
For more information visit

http://hamilton.osu.edu/topics/horticulture/2012-tri-state-green-industry-conference

Pesticide Recertification
The 2013 Commercial Pesticide Applicator Recertification Conferences dates have been set. Next year’s dates are as follows: Dayton, Dayton Convention Center, Thursday, January 31; Akron, John S. Knight Center, Wednesday, February 13; Columbus, Columbus Convention Center, Tuesday, March 5; and Sandusky, Kalahari Conference Center, Thursday, March 21. Additional information about these conferences including registration information can be found at http://pested.osu.edu/.

OSU Nursery Short Course
This upcoming program will be held Sunday, January 13 – Wednesday, January 16, 2013. This program has been expanded to include over 100 sessions designed to answer your questions, provide you with continuing education credits, and bring you up-to-date on hot topics for the green industry. Registration for the OSU Nursery Short Course includes admission to the CENTS tradeshow which runs Monday, January 14 – Wednesday, January 16, 2013. Registration materials will be out soon. Early bird deadline is January 4, 2013. Hope to see you at next year’s OSU Nursery Short Course in Columbus!

Your Woods, Water and Wildlife
The Ohio Woodland Stewards Program is offering this all day session on Saturday, November 10, 2012. We all own our woodlands for a variety of reasons. Spend the day with OSU Extension educators to learn more about what you have and what you can have. We will explore what you need to know about keeping your woodland healthy, what you can do to improve it for wildlife and timber and how to manage the other natural areas on your land. Check out the link to the brochure with a listing of the day’s program – http://woodlandstewards.osu.edu/sites/drupal-owoods.web/files/brochures/landowner%20workshop.pdf . Session topics include: Want Wildlife?; Non-Native Invasives; Got Trees? Tip for Woodland Owners; Farm Uses of Wood; Attracting Non-Game Wildlife; Controlling Non-Native Invasive Plants; Algae, Plants and Fish in Ponds; Thinking About Selling Timber; and What You Need to Know About Ticks.

For More Information:
Ohio Woodland Stewards Website

http://woodlandstewards.osu.edu/classes/events/your-woods-water-wildlife

Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) Risk Management Workshop to be Held in St. Louis Park, MN
This program is schedule for October 22, 2012 and the target audience is municipal administrators, elected officials, planners, risk managers, and allied professionals. Employees of non-profit entities managing large numbers of trees that affect public safety are also encouraged to attend (i.e. colleges, nature centers, etc.). Registration is available online at http://tinyurl.com/RSVP-4-EAB-RM . Session topics include: EAB Myths and FAQs; Memo from Forester to City Manager: Don’t Wait; Considerations for the City Attorney; What Can You Get For Your Money? Budgeting for EAB; Your Management Options vs. the Death Curve; and Getting the Word Out. This is the fifth program, with previous workshop’s held in Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Wisconsin. Missed the session in Ohio? It might be time for a road trip!

Byglosophy
“There is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under heaven:
a time to be born and a time to die,
a time to plant and a time to uproot,
a time to kill and a time to heal,
a time to tear down and a time to build
a time to weep and a time to laugh,
a time to mourn and a time to dance,
a time to scatter stones and a time to gather them,
a time to embrace and a time to refrain,
a time to search and a time to give up,
a time to keep and a time to throw away,
a time to tear and a time to mend,
a time to be silent and a time to speak,
a time to love and a time to hate,
a time for war and a time for peace.” – Anonymous
And now it is time for us to say goodbye for another season.

October 18, 2012
This is the 28th 2012 edition of the Buckeye Yard and Garden Line (BYGL). BYGL is developed from a Tuesday morning conference call of Extension Educators, Specialists, and other contributors in Ohio.

BYGL is a service of OSU Extension and is aided by support from the ONLA (Ohio Nursery and Landscape Association) http://onla.org/ ; http://buckeyegardening.com/ to the OSU Extension Nursery, Landscape and Turf Team (ENLTT). Any materials in this newsletter may be reproduced for educational purposes providing the source is credited.* Weed – Jimsonweed (Datura stramonium)* Vegetable – Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas)* Perennial – Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)White-Nose Syndrome in Bats: Report Signs of Infected Bats

Biennials – Plants which require two years to complete their life cycle. First season growth results in a small rosette of leaves near the soil surface. During the second season’s growth stem elongation, flowering and seed formation occur followed by the entire plant’s death.

Annual/Perennial – A plant can behave as an annual or a perennial depending on local climatic and geographic growing conditions. In the southern portion of the United States, these plants tend to grow much quicker than in the north due to the warmer weather and extended growing season. For example: a Black-Eyed Susan would behave as an annual if grown in Louisiana; whereas, if grown in Ohio, a Black-Eyed Susan would behave as a perennial.

Cutting of Roots. The digging and trenching that are necessary to construct a house and install underground utilities will likely sever a portion of the roots of many trees in the area. It is easy to appreciate the potential for damage if you understand where roots grow. The roots of a tree are found mostly in the upper 6 to 12 inches of the soil. In a mature tree, the roots extend far from the trunk. In fact, roots typically are found growing a distance of one to three times the height of the tree. The amount of damage a tree can suffer from root loss depends, in part, on how close to the tree the cut is made. Severing one major root can cause the loss of 5 to 20 percent of the root system.

Another problem that may result from root loss caused by digging and trenching is that the potential for the trees to fall over is increased. The roots play a critical role in anchoring a tree. If the major support roots are cut on one side of a tree, the tree may fall or blow over.

Less damage is done to tree roots if utilities are tunneled under a tree rather than across the roots.

Soil Compaction. An ideal soil for root growth and development is about 50 percent pore space. These pores—the spaces between soil particles—are filled with water and air. The heavy equipment used in construction com-pacts the soil and can dramatically reduce the amount of pore space. This compaction not only inhibits root growth and penetration but also decreases oxygen in the soil that is essential to the growth and function of the roots.

Smothering Roots by Adding Soil. Most people are surprised to learn that 90 percent of the fine roots that absorb water and minerals are in the upper 6 to 12 inches of soil. Roots require space, air, and water. Roots grow best where these requirements are met, which is usually near the soil surface. Piling soil over the root system or increasing the grade smothers the roots. It takes only a few inches of added soil to kill a sensitive mature tree.

Exposure to the Elements. Trees in a forest grow as a community, protecting each other from the elements. The trees grow tall, with long, straight trunks and high canopies. Removing neighboring trees or opening the shared canopies of trees during construction exposes the remaining trees to sunlight and wind. The higher levels of sunlight may cause sunscald on the trunks and branches. Also, the remaining trees are more prone to breaking from wind or ice loading.

Getting Advice

Hire a professional arborist in the early planning stage. Many of the trees on your property may be saved if the proper steps are taken. Allow the arborist to meet with you and your building contractor. Your arborist can assess the trees on your property, determine which are healthy and structurally sound, and suggest measures to preserve and protect them.

One of the first decisions is determining which trees are to be preserved and which should be removed. You must consider the species, size, maturity, location, and condition of each tree. The largest, most mature trees are not always the best choices to preserve. Younger, more vigorous trees usually can survive and adapt to the stresses of construction better. Try to maintain diversity of species and ages. Your arborist can advise you about which trees are more sensitive to compaction, grade changes, and root damage.

Planning

Your arborist and builder should work together in planning the construction. The builder may need to be educated regarding the value of the trees on your property and the importance of saving them. Few builders are aware of the way trees’ roots grow and what must be done to protect them.

Sometimes small changes in the placement or design of your house can make a great difference in whether a critical tree will survive. An alternative plan may be more friendly to the root system. For example, bridging over the roots may substitute for a conventional walkway. Because trenching near a tree for utility installation can be damaging, tunneling under the root system may be a good option.

Erecting Barriers

Because our ability to repair construction damage to trees is limited, it is vital that trees be protected from injury. The single most important action you can take is to set up construction fences around all of the trees that are to remain. The fences should be placed as far out from the trunks of the trees as possible. As a general guideline, allow 1 foot of space from the trunk for each inch of trunk diameter. The intent is not merely to protect the aboveground portions of the trees but also the root systems. Remember that the root systems extend much farther than the drip lines of the trees.

Instruct construction personnel to keep the fenced area clear of building materials, waste, and excess soil. No digging, trenching, or other soil disturbance should be allowed in the fenced area.

Protective fences should be erected as far out from the trunks as possible in order to protect the root system.

Limiting Access

If at all possible, it is best to allow only one access route on and off the property. All contractors must be instructed where they are permitted to drive and park their vehicles. Often this same access drive can later serve as the route for utility wires, water lines, or the driveway.

Specify storage areas for equipment, soil, and construction materials. Limit areas for burning (if permitted), cement wash-out pits, and construction work zones. These areas should be away from protected trees.

Specifications

Get it in writing. All of the measures intended to protect your trees must be written into the construction specifications. The written specifications should detail exactly what can and cannot be done to and around the trees. Each subcontractor must be made aware of the barriers, limitations, and specified work zones. It is a good idea to post signs as a reminder.

Fines and penalties for violations should be built into the specifications. Not too surprisingly, subcontractors are much more likely to adhere to the tree preservation clauses if their profit is at stake. The severity of the fines should be proportional to the potential damage to the trees and should increase for multiple infractions.

Maintaining Good Communications

It is important to work together as a team. You may share clear objectives with your arborist and your builder, but one subcontractor can destroy your prudent efforts. Construction damage to trees is often irreversible.

Visit the site at least once a day if possible. Your vigilance will pay off as workers learn to take your wishes seriously. Take photos at every stage of construction. If any infraction of the specifications does occur, it will be important to prove liability.

Final Stages

It is not unusual to go to great lengths to preserve trees during construction, only to have them injured during landscaping. Installing irrigation systems and rototilling planting beds are two ways the root systems of trees can be damaged. Remember also that small increases in grade (as little as 2 to 6 inches) that place additional soil over the roots can be devastating to your trees. Careful planning and communicating with landscape designers and contractors is just as important as avoiding tree damage during construction.

Post-Construction Tree Maintenance

Your trees will require several years to adjust to the injury and environmental changes that occur during construction. Stressed trees are more prone to health problems such as disease and insect infestations. Talk to your arborist about continued maintenance for your trees. Continue to monitor your trees, and have them periodically evaluated for declining health or safety hazards.

Despite the best intentions and most stringent tree preservation measures, your trees still might be injured from the construction process. Your arborist can suggest remedial treatments to help reduce stress and improve the growing conditions around your trees. In addition, the International Society of Arboriculture offers a companion to this brochure titled Treatment of Trees Damaged by Construction.

E-mail inquiries: isa@isa-arbor.com

(c) 1998, 2004 International Society of Arboriculture.
UPDATED JULY 2005

Developed by the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), a non-profit organization supporting tree care research around the world and is dedicated to the care and preservation of shade and ornamental trees. For further information, contact:
ISA, P.O. Box 3129, Champaign, IL 61826-3129, USA.
E-mail inquires: isa@isa-arbor.com

© 2007 International Society of Arboriculture.
UPDATED SEPTEMBER 2005

Tree Service Description:
Tom Taber (Ohio Certified Arborist & Consulting Arborist)
Tree Pruning
Trapper’s Tree Service of Columbus Ohio will determine the type of pruning necessary to maintain or improve the health, appearance, and safety of your trees. These techniques include:
- eliminating branches that rub each other
- removing limbs that interfere with wires, building facades, gutters, roofs, chimneys, or windows, or that obstruct streets or sidewalks
- removing dead or weak limbs that pose a hazard or may lead to decay
- removing diseased or insect-infested limbs
- creating better structure to lessen wind resistance and reduce the potential for storm damage
- training young trees
- removing limbs damaged by adverse weather conditions
- removing branches, or thinning, to increase light penetration
- improving the shape or silhouette of the tree

Tree Removal
Although tree removal is a last resort, there are circumstances when it is necessary. Trapper’s Tree Service of Columbus Ohio will help you decide whether a tree should be removed. As arborists we have the skills and equipment to safely and efficiently remove trees. Removal is recommended when the tree:
- is dead or dying
- is considered irreparably hazardous
- is causing an obstruction that is impossible to correct through pruning
- is crowding and causing harm to other trees
- is to be replaced by a more suitable specimen
- is located in an area where new construction requires removal

Emergency Tree Care
Storms may cause limbs or entire trees to fall, often landing on other trees, homes and other structures, or cars. The weight of storm-damaged trees is great, and they can be dangerous to remove or trim. As a Certified Arborist, Trapper’s Tree Service of Columbus Ohio can assist you in performing the job in a safe manner, while reducing further risk of damage to property.

Tree Planting
Trapper’s Tree Service of Columbus Ohio can recommend types of trees that are appropriate for a specific location. The wrong tree in the wrong location could lead to future problems as a result of limited growing space, insects, diseases, or poor growth.

Other Services
Trapper’s Tree Service of Columbus Ohio also provides a variety of other tree care services, including:
- Plant Health Care, a concept of preventive maintenance to keep trees in good health, which will help the tree better defend itself against insects, disease, and site problems
- Tree Fertilization
- Cabling or bracing for added support to branches with weak attachment
- Aeration to improve root growth
- Installation of lightning protection systems

Large residential oak with cavity that was filled with concrete and painted brown  to match the tree. Note the small tree growing out of the concrete! Photo credit: Patrick Weicherding

A tree cavity is similar to a cavity in your tooth. Without proper treatment, the situation will only get worse. Unfortunately, cutting down on sweets and brushing regularly will not help to prevent a tree cavity.

In simple terms, a cavity in a tree is a neglected bark injury that can be the result of many factors. The most common are improper pruning, mechanical injury and storm damage. Storm damage and injury from gnawing animals and landscape equipment (lawnmowers and string trimmers) contribute to bark injury by tearing the bark from the tree trunk or branch. When bark injury has occurred, the exposed sapwood or heartwood is more susceptible to attack by fungi that initiate the decay process. Insects and animals such as raccoons, woodpeckers and squirrels that inhabit tree cavities utilize the tree wound as the front door to their new home. Carpenter ants, in particular, will excavate tunnels throughout the decayed portion of the tree and excrete wood preserving enzymes as they do so. While these preservatives are beneficial to the tree, the tunnels the ants create allow water to accumulate. Excess water simply facilitates the wood rotting process.

In the past, tree cavities were filled with many different materials including cement, asphalt, masonry and even rocks and gravel. These cavity-filling techniques came to the United States from Europe after the turn of the century. In fact, in Europe having cavities filled in trees was sign of affluence. Only the very wealthy could afford such service for their trees. Today we know that these materials are very abrasive. Natural tree movements, such as swaying and twisting, rub the inside surface of the tree cavity against the filling, further weakening the tree’s defensive walls and allowing decay to expand. In addition, we know that these materials do not allow the tree to bend and therefore renders the tree more susceptible to storm damage. Also, because of these tree movements the cavity-filling materials do not bond with wood. Gaps are often the result and these gaps frequently trap water. This dark and moist environment allows decay fungi to proliferate.

Many early “tree surgeons” used to drill holes in the tree into the bottom of the cavity in order to facilitate water removal. We now know that any cut, drilled hole or tube installed will cause more damage to the protective walls, which leads to further decay. Biologically, there is no reason to drain water from the cavity. Draining a cavity allows fast-growing, oxygen-requiring fungi to invade. Water-saturated wood has little oxygen present and is inhabited by slow-growing organisms.

Another more recent cavity treatment involved scraping out as much of the decayed wood as possible and then filling the cavity with a urethane or polyurethane foam to fill the hole. It was believed that when the foam expanded it would eliminate all the air in the cavity and prevent the accumulation of water. Besides, the foam was supposed to be flexible and move with the natural movement of the tree. What the advocates of this practice failed to remember is that the scraping action destroyed any protective barriers that were already in place further weakening the tree’s defenses and allowing decay to expand.

So how is it some trees seems to flourish in spite of their cavity? When a tree is wounded, its uses a natural defense mechanism called “compartmentalization” to create both a physical and a chemical barrier between the wound wood and the rest of the tree. The exact nature of this barrier is not yet fully understood but is apparently is related to toxic phenols that are produced by the tree at the site of injury. These chemicals help the tree to establish boundaries that reduce the spread of pathogens to uninjured parts of the tree. Compartmentalization is under moderate to strong genetic control. And, the ability of microorganisms to compete successfully with others and to spread within the compartments is also under genetic control. As a result there is a lot of variation between different species of trees in how well they compartmentalize wounds. Trees like American basswood and littleleaf linden, boxelder and silver maple, aspen and birch, red and northern pin oak, and hackberry and willows are know as “poor” compartmentalizers. Rapid and extensive decay is common in these species.

How should trees with cavities be treated? Recent research shows that it is better to leave the cavity open – remember no type of drainage, sterilization, fill material, wound paint, or scraping treatment stops decay – and simply take the necessary measures required to improve the overall health of the tree. A healthy tree has the strength to compartmentalize and wall-off decay.

• When it is dry enough, mow the grass with the mower adjusted to the lowest setting. This will remove dead leaf blades to promote early greening of the lawn. The clippings should be raked off and removed.
• Aeration can reduce compaction from winter weather so that moisture and air can be absorbed into the soil.
• For colder climates: After the snow has melted, raking can clear off debris and thatch from the surface, exposing the soil so new seeds can germinate.

** Check in later in the week for other yard care suggestions from your friends at Trapper’s Tree Service!

Area Residents Are Encouraged To Report Any Signs of ALB and to Avoid Moving Firewood

WASHINGTON, June 17, 2011 – The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Animal and
Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) and the Ohio Department of Agriculture (ODA)
announce that surveys are under way in Bethel, Ohio, after the detection and identification of the Asian longhorned beetle (ALB). Bethel is located 30 miles southeast of Cincinnati.

First discovered in the U.S. in 1996, Asian longhorned beetles attack several species of
trees including maple, willow, horsechestnut, buckeye, and American elm. While in its larvae stage, ALB kills trees by tunneling into large branches and the trunk.

Ohio is the fifth state to detect ALB, which APHIS confirmed in Bethel after a citizen
reported finding unusual damage in three maple trees to an Ohio Department of Natural
Resources Division of Forestry service forester. Previous infestations sites, where the beetles are being successfully contained, include Illinois, Massachusetts, New Jersey and New York.

APHIS and ODA inspection crews are surveying the southern portion of Bethel and the
surrounding area to determine the extent of the ALB infestation. Crews will inspect host tree species susceptible to ALB for signs of the wood-boring beetle using ground surveyors and specially trained tree climbers.

APHIS and the ODA are working cooperatively with the Ohio Department of Natural
Resources, Ohio State University Extension, the USDA Agricultural Research Service, the USDA Forest Service, and the town of Bethel to evaluate the scope of the infestation and to inform the public about the exotic, invasive pest.

Citizens can help by reporting sightings of an unusual beetle and any signs of infestation
to a designated, toll free hotline 855-252-6450.

Adult ALB are usually large, distinctive-looking insects measuring 1 to 1 1/2 inches long,
not including antennae. Their white-banded antennae can be as long as the body itself in females and almost twice the body length in males.

Signs of infestation include perfectly round exit holes (about 3/8 to 1/2 inch in diameter)
made by adult beetles when they emerge from trees; the pockmarks on tree trunks and branches where female beetles deposit eggs; frass (wood shavings and saw dust) produced by larvae feeding and tunneling; early fall coloration of leaves or dead branches, and running sap produced by the tree at the egg laying sites, or in response to larval tunneling.

To report signs or symptoms of ALB, please call the Ohio Survey Program toll free at
855-252-6450. For more information, please visit the following web sites:

Beetle Busters
USDA
OH Dept of Agriculture

Asian longhorned beetle (photo: Michael Bohne, USDA Forest Service, www.bugwood.org)

Oviposition niches and exit holes on ALB-infested tree (photo: Dennis Haugen, USDAForest Service, Bugwood.org )